U-552

Rigging

2009-04-05T14:40:00.021+01:00

Isolators supplied by the kit are completely wrong, and arre moulded together with part of the rigging. The bow, and stern isolators are missing in the kit.

This is how it looks like in the kit:

Green Stuff came to the resque.
Good thing is the insulators made from this medium are of the right color, and there is no need for paint.
For test shot i used 0,125 mm wire, but for the final rigging Dacron will be used.

At last i have found some quality time to work on the boat.
All the other small projects have been put on hold, and i cleared the desk for the U-Boot.
First i have cat two brass plates into which the screw was attached. I made the scraw using 0,9mm long piece of brass tubing of 1mm dia. Couple of loops were mede from 0,150mm dia wire, and soldered into the tubes.

I made the wraparounds from the cotton buds, which have been stretched on top of the cigarette lighter.
Brand new blade allowed me to cut the small sections cleanly, without them splitting.
Fishing braid called Dacron from Drennan company as the line.
Custom made rigging blocks from sheet of brass, and wire, soldered together.
Threading the braid was the problem, but i have solved it with the use of thin copper wire. First i threaded the wire through the wraparound, and after forming the loop, the braid was placed inside the loop, and threaded back through the wraparound. Spot of CA glue on the braid, and loop was slid over it. After cutting one end, we are left with neat finish.

Painting the 88mm, and gun crew.

2009-03-22T13:03:00.011Z

Im back in the shipyard, and work started on the 88mm gun crew.
Im using Warriors set.
After asembly i cut out the imitation of the 88mm projectile from the hands of the loader- i will turn the new one from brass.

Projectile was turned from copper wire, and soldered inside the brass tubing.

Test shots of the general layout.

Base colour was applied.

Meanwhile the gun receiving its share of paint:

Oil stains applied:

Soft pencil 3B, 4B, 5B and 6B for raw metal scratches:

Barrel tampion.
I used the end of the revell barrel, drilled the hole 0,3mm in it, and inserted the 0,3mm wire with the soldered loop into the hole.
As the lanyard i used the Egiptian cotton 0,2mm diameter, stained with Mig-s Oil and Grease mixture. The knot was wraped in lycra rigging from WEM.

TBC...

88mm deck gun

2009-02-22T13:57:00.018Z

Conning tower crew

2009-02-06T22:37:00.017Z

I got bored with all the weathering, which i will be constantly updating, and i got my figures out of the box.
I bought 2 new sets of Vallejo acrylics. I never use them paints, but i heard lot of good about them from different sources, and decided to give them a go.

Resin figures from Warriors.

Some filling, and cleaning is required, but overall nice figures. Dry fitted before painting.

All the seams were filled in with highly dilluted Milliput, and sanded smooth. Washed the figures in warm, soapy water, and installed them on the soft drink tops. Delicate mist of Tamiya grey primer, and left to cure in empty Rafaello chocolates box.

Tamiya flat black for base colour, after cleaning all the imperfections highlighted by primer.

Weathering

2009-01-31T20:46:00.011Z

Before i started weathering the boat i have cleaned the paint from the GHG sensors.

First the boat was sealed with Extracrylics flat varnish, providing dull surface for filters.
Filter P404 to lighten the black bits on the conning tower, P240 to all the light colour, and P242 for under the hatches, under the handrails, and areas around the flood holes.

Tamiya gloss varnish to seal the filters, and to provide the shiny supface for washes to run properly.
Brown wash followed.

While waiting for the paint to cure properly i have installed the screws.
The screws are from Reboesh, and have been weathered in salty water with little vinegar for more realistic look.

Now all the paint has cured, it was time for oils.

Paint fading below the waterline. I used the mask, and P404 filter.

By masking few more times, at ifferent levels, and applying the transparent filters we get the nice multilayered fading effect of salt build up.

TBC...

Decals

2009-01-28T11:54:00.011Z

Kit decals were used. They performed well aided by Sol, and Set by Microscale.

Trim decals from AMP.
The dark grey was varnished beforhand to help with decal application.
Afterwards sealed using Extracrylics flat varnish.

Couple of pictures of the current set up, before i jump in with filters, and oils.

TBC...

Painting.

2009-01-25T13:03:00.011Z

Mix of Tamiya X-2, XF-18, XF-19, X-21, and X-22 for top part of the hull.
Preshading just visible under the main colour- perfect!

Mix of Tamiya colours of which the XF-18 was dominant for the bottom of the hull.

Deck painted using mix of XF-64, 66, 24.

All the black bits were painted mix of black, and grey, but it turned darker than expected, so the white filter will have to be applied.
The flat varnish after decals should tone it down a bit too.

Postshaing.
I used the base colour mixed with Tamiya Smoke for the bottom of the saddle tanks, and lower pressure hull, and graually added more smoke, and finally flat black for the lowest point.

TBC...

Preshading

2009-01-24T14:06:00.006Z

Bearing in mind the conning tower, and top part of the hull was painted in lighter shade than the bottom of the boat i used the Tamiya Medium Blue (XF-18) for preshading this areas.
Mixed at 50/50 with Tamiya Thinner, and sprayed at 20 PSI using the old trusty Badger 200.

Field Blue (XF-50) was applied to lower part of the hull:

TBC...

20mm MG C/30 flak gun

2009-01-13T22:49:00.015Z

Jumping wires supports

2009-01-12T13:57:00.012Z

Capstan

2009-01-12T00:05:00.009Z

Capstan.
I struggled for months to get the detailed shot of capstan, and finally i was presented with these 2 shots from my friend Simon from New Zealand.

Heres the picture of the kit part, and new turned from resin capstan with all the bits scratch built.

TBC...

Deck Railings

2009-01-10T10:00:00.014Z

Deck railings.
Im building the railings from scratch.
Similar to conning tower railings- the kit parts are slightly too thick.
In order to make good, solid railings i purchesed 4 spools of copper wire from Maplin
http://www.maplin.co.uk/

Better than skinning old wires. ;-)

Im using 0,45mm copper wire, Dremel soldering torch, and Koki paste.
Brackets for rope from brass sheet.

Front part of the railing.
It differs from revell one slightly. Some bars are absent on the pictures of U-552.

Priming the boat final

2009-01-08T16:57:00.006Z

Humbrol`s Maskol was used to mask the areas where the conning tower, and capstan will be fixed. It will remain there during painting process, untill im ready to glue the parts on.

Tamiya`s primer being applied....

TBC....

Hull- final datailing

2009-01-04T18:46:00.016Z

Final detailing before the hull is ready for painting.

Ammo storage hatches were detailed. Eduard PE was used, and hinges were made out of stretched sprue, blobed at both ends with hot knife:

Some additional deck details:

Few hatches, and steel pletes were fixed to the sides of the hull. UT sensors fixed in place.

Stern jump wires supports.
Revells part is just plain threelegged lump of plastic, and i decided to pimp it up a litle.
First i scratched 6 brackets from sheet of brass, soldered thin wire to every each of them. Then the deck was drilled in the right placess, and CA glue was used to fix the wires in. Nice, and solid job.

Because devil is in detail:

Added 3 cleats:

4 more winch mounting point were aded by the external stern torpdo storage.

TBC...

Stern light

2009-01-03T01:09:00.010Z

Boat hook

2009-01-01T18:03:00.014Z

I found the kit parts to be short of any detail, and both were bent badly.
Instead i made the new parts from scratch.

Net cutter

2008-12-29T12:38:00.012Z

With net cutter being crude in the kit i decided to build the whole support system from scratch.
Im using Eduard PE set for cutter, and brackets. Rest is made from various brass tubes, and scratch built brass triangular brackets.

Deck furnishing cont.

2008-12-28T17:13:00.009Z

Furnishing of the deck continues.

Small hatch just in front of the 88mm gun.

Stern section of the boat getting detailed.

Antislip strips were fixed round the 88mm gun, and kabstan.

Couple of wooden strips were added:

All the hinges have been added from Eduard set. All 52 of them. Labourous task, but one that makes the deck look so realistic.

Cooks hatch

2008-12-26T14:43:00.018Z

To make the cooks hatch i used the Modelbrass PE, but sanded smooth.

Small hole was drilled to house the handle. I discovered new way of preventing my delicate drillbits from breaking. I simply glue the bit inside the brass tubing.

Thin copper wire was soldered on. The edge of the hatch was made from 0,5mm copper wire, which was sanded square, then shaped to the outline of the hatch.

Hole was drilled in the deck in place of the hatch lock, and little groove to acomodate the soldered wire.

TBC...

Bollards

2008-12-24T16:38:00.014Z

I started furnishing the deck.
First line of attack- bollards.
Couple of pictures of bollards in stowed, and raised possition.

I have 4 different sets to choose from. Im thinking of making most bollards in stowed possition, and couple raised to vary the deck detail slightly.

I decided to go with Modelbrass.
First the 2,5mm diameter brass tubing was cut, creating 12 sections- 5mm in length.
Then the top part of the bollard was glued.

Stern bollards.
Because Modelbrass PE contains only 2 plates pointing in opposite directions, some scratch building was required to get 2 new plates for stern.

The single most forward set of bollards:

Last set of bollards.
No plate under the bollards, as the deck was steel here. It was tricky, because the Eduard PE deck had set of bollards etched in already. Careful sanding was required, as not to damage the delicate antislip surface of the deck.

Bow riveting, and doublers.

2008-12-14T22:28:00.007Z

It took me all sunday / from 7 in the morning, to well past 22 hours / to finish sanding, and riveting the bow section of the boat. Im glad it is over.

Bow doublers.
As before i used thin food foil, and Trumpeter riveter tool.
I have added 2 bottom doublers missed by Revell.

Weld lines.
I didnt use the Archer transfers due to the complex curvature of the hull. Instead i used the mask, and filler technique. After sanding the welds will be barely visible against the light.
When painted it should give right impression, correct to the scale of the model.

Protecting strip around the anchor well:

Another small detail of the bow. Nobody knows what it actually is, but i think it is part of the GHG for mine detection. Blohm & Voss boats had it fitted.

TBC...

Main slot correction.

2008-12-07T11:18:00.008Z

As pointed by Dougie Martindale, the main slot was just a little short on the model, and it needed correction. It sarted right after the last limber hole.

Port side:

Starboard side:

Few details under the deck i forgot about earlier:

Stern doublers, welds, and rivets.

2008-12-06T16:16:00.007Z

Rivets:

Doublers.

TBC...

Stern planes and rudder

2008-11-29T18:32:00.017Z

Support brackets:

Dry fit:

Detailing plane supports:

TBC...

Saddle tank vents- take 2

2008-11-26T22:13:00.008Z

Due to new fotografic material i had to revise the saddle tank vents.

Previously made vents:

Foto of the real thing:

Crossection:

Holes were filled in with Miliput, and green filler.

New vents out of styrene sheet:

TBC...

Bow dive planes.

2008-11-15T15:14:00.016Z

Its been so long since i posted anything, but the the RL things prevented me from the work on the boat /namely the house move/

Now im back in the shipyard, and while still doing touch ups to the hull i decided to sort out the dive planes.
In order to connect the wire i rebuild the planes slightly.

TBC...

Stand dry fit.

2008-08-30T12:56:00.013+01:00

At this stage of the build i started thinking about the stand. All the needed ingredients were gathered together.
1 metre length of mahogany wood to form the base of the stand. It will be routered round the edge to form the slot for the glass cabinet.

The name plate was made out of perspex, leters were laser cut, and painted silver.

Badge, and cross bought from PZG.

...dry fit. Obviously the temporary timber will be gone, and the steel legs will be replaced by brass finials.

Glass case was custom made.

Im thinking of clading the edges with strips of wood, or aluminium. I`ll decide later.

The devils badge just arrived, and i decided to drop the cross from the display for better balance.

New plaque- this time without any errors.

TBC...

Anchor

2008-08-25T17:44:00.007+01:00

Bullnose.

2008-08-20T22:35:00.007+01:00

Revells bullnose was in the wrong place, and the groove that houses the tow line was missing.
New hole was drilled, and groove cut. Tube was soldered from scrap sheet of brass.

The SG aparatus was repositioned. I moved it back a little. The anchor well is in the process of filling in, as it is too deep in the kit.

TBC...

Saddle tanks inspection hatches.

2008-08-18T22:00:00.006+01:00

Modelbrass PE hatches were curved to the shape of the saddle tanks, and sunk in plastic using soldering iron. Sanded smooth.

TBC...

Hull preparation.

2008-08-17T13:05:00.007+01:00

All the previously made welds were filled in. Sanding begun.

TBC...

Outside of the CT.

2008-07-30T21:34:00.015+01:00

First impressions of the outside areas. Few things need to be corrected.

All the rail holes, and big isolator hole were filled with miliput.
Lights are gone, and the recesses were made deeper, and wider. Grilles are back in place.

Isolator nest was replaced by 2,5mm copper tube, with 2mm styrene lining.

Line brackets made from 2 different Eduardd PE bits.

Tamiya white primer highlighted all the imperfections:

Contour lights.
The glass is made from green, and red cigarette lighters. Not glued in yet. I will paint the back of the glass silver, and fix them in, after the paint is applied to the whole CT.

Sanded the filler, and after Mr.Surfacer was applied i sanded it again, ready for rivets.

Rear isolators.
Wire 1,5mm drilled for ceramic isolator tips. Brackets from 0,2mm soldered on, and bent around the railings.

Rivets are done. Brackets, and rest of the furnishings from Eduard PE, and beer can.

Finished the rest of the grabrails, and steps.

Thanks to some fotos from Dougie Martindale i scratchbuilt new rear light.

TBC...

Installing the wintergarten.

2008-07-26T19:28:00.017+01:00

TBC...

Painting insides of the CT.

2008-07-10T22:51:00.031+01:00

After my battle with enamels, i washed the model, and im starting again- this time with acrylics.
During the washing process i lost some delicate detail on the main scope, and im making the new one from scratch:

The good thing is it looks 10 times better than the previous one.

Mix of Tamiya XF-18, XF-24, X-22, and X-20A thinner /20+20+10+50 / for the first coat.

Second coat of the same mix.

Coat number 3.
10% of XF-66 (light grey) and another 10% of X-22 gloss varnish added to the base mix.

Sin Industries P240 filter applied. Easily seen under the arresting hooks.

Mig Brown Wash.

After wash, filters, and fadeing with light grey it looks like so.

Black enamel wash thinned Mig wash thinner.

Paint chipping done using mix of black, and brown oils. Some polished metal on the footpegs, and handrails with 5B Derwent pencil.

TBC...

BBC box.

2008-07-10T09:20:00.009+01:00

Arresting hooks.

2008-07-08T10:00:00.009+01:00

Sides of the CT were drilled using 1mm bit. Than to the left, and right of each hole 0,2mm holes were drilled to house the wire hooks.

Voicetube.

2008-07-06T22:04:00.010+01:00

The voicetube was replaced by scratchbuilt tube made of the 1mm wire, drilled, and shaped, than soldered to the stem from thiner wire.

Railings.

2008-07-05T12:29:00.009+01:00

To make soldering easier, the plug needs to be made. 2 discs were cut, and spacers were glued inbetween.

Than i realised, that i can not wrap the cardboard round it. Cardboard was spliting, even when it was soaked in water. Plan B was, to cut 8 discs, each 2mm thick, and glue them to form the plug.

1mm wire was wraped round the top, and secured with strips of Tamiya tape. First soldered joint for testing. I used Koki paste, and Dremel soldering iron with fine tip.
I removed the wire from the plug for strength test, and it is very strong.

So i started again. I used two different wires. The 0,7mm for top rail, and 3 stantions, and the rest is 0,4mm.

TBC...

Aerial loop.

2008-06-29T13:29:00.009+01:00

Line tensioner.

2008-06-29T00:54:00.004+01:00

Dials, edge of CT,and top of aerial housing.

2008-06-24T18:53:00.005+01:00

Dials

The ribs located at the front bulkhead, made out of the plastic coated wires from the sandwich bags. The rim going around the CT is 1mm copper wire sanded to the letter D profile.

Top surface of the aerial housing.

Console

2008-06-18T09:02:00.007+01:00

UZO

2008-06-14T21:27:00.023+01:00

Observation scope housing.

2008-06-13T19:33:00.012+01:00

Latch

2008-06-02T23:25:00.006+01:00

Twisted periscope thingy.

2008-05-31T16:42:00.005+01:00

Compass

2008-05-27T23:58:00.011+01:00

Attack scope housing.

2008-05-27T00:43:00.015+01:00

Main Hatch-Lid.

2008-05-25T22:19:00.013+01:00

Periscopes

2008-05-25T12:39:00.010+01:00

The scopes are being replaced by Schatton Modellbau aluminium scopes.

Observation scope.

Attack scope.

Tha scope ratainer glued in place.

CT deck detailing.

2008-05-20T22:28:00.010+01:00

The main hatch opening.

CT top part- walls.

2008-05-15T20:53:00.016+01:00

Starboard side.

Port side.

Aerial housing.

2008-05-12T19:20:00.009+01:00

Conning Tower top part. Airvents

2008-05-11T11:41:00.006+01:00

Conning Tower deck.

2008-05-10T12:19:00.012+01:00

Rear light

2008-05-06T08:36:00.010+01:00

Lower CT detailing.

2008-05-03T16:01:00.016+01:00

Magnetic compass hatch.
Holls drilled, squered, plastic thinned around the holes. Eduard PE /2 parts/ glued in.

Two squere holes on the side of CT drilled, sides thinned, and stretched sprue glued in.

Horns.

Ammo hatch.

Wave deflector.

All the remaining doors added.

Conning Tower- bottom part.

2008-04-28T00:05:00.023+01:00

Conning tower.
Part of the original revell deck used as the base of the CT. Pressure chamber scratch built from styrene, with some pipes, wires, and dials attached to walls.

The ladder made from various wires CA glued together on the strip of Tamiya tape.

The 3 air ducts extended abowe the deck.

The bunch of holes on the side of the CT. Instead of drilling them i used the Modelbrass template to make the styrene substitute- with the right pattern of holes. Not happy with the thickness of styrene /0,3mm / i decided to drill in the beer can tin, and the result is much better.

Priming the hull

2008-04-26T19:12:00.005+01:00

Tamiya Fine Primer Light Gray applied to highlight all the imperfections ie: areas to be sanded, or filled.

SG- Sonder Gerat.

2008-04-21T22:41:00.010+01:00

Hull preparation.

2008-04-18T21:14:00.009+01:00

Deck joint.

Stern steel section treated to Euard PE. Water deflectors round the 88mm gun being smoothed out.

Painting p. hull and fixing the deck.

2008-04-11T09:50:00.012+01:00

Underside of the deck, and upper pressure hull surface primed with Halfords Plastic Primer.

First, and second coat of WEM Schiffsbodenfarbe III thinned 50/50 with Humbrol Enamel Thinner.

Mix of 40% Schiffsbodenfarbe + 50% Humbrol thinner + 10% Baltic Dunkelgrau- applied to large surfaces between welds to create the impression of p.hull segments.

Tamiya XF-64 at 10/90 with water for wash, Revell matt 83 for streaks, and Taniya Weathering Master Orange Rust for fresh rust run-offs.

Exhausts were fixed back in.

Bow section of the deck in place.

Stern section of the deck in place.